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Application of polyglutamic acid (sodium) in cosmetics

Gamma-PGA: New Biological Long-lasting Moisturizer

Application of polyglutamic acid (sodium) in cosmetics

The secrets of the jellyfish

  • Jellyfish are beautiful and wonderful underwater creatures that need to change their body shape rapidly at any time to survive and move.
  • What is the force that allows it to change shape so rapidly, adjusting the volume and pressure of the inner cavity?
  • What helps jellyfish store water without losing it in salt water?
  • For years, scientists have been trying to solve this mystery, and after many setbacks, they have finally discovered that there is a mysterious substance in the jellyfish - γ-PGA.

Polyglutamic acid structural formula

Gamma-polyglutamic acid (gamma-PGA) is an amino polymer composed of D-glutamic acid and L-glutamic acid polymerized through gamma-glutamyl bonds, with a general molecular weight of 10-2000 kDa. Gamma-PGA was first discovered in 1937 by Ivanovics and others, and since 1942, when Bovarnick discovered that gamma-PGA, as a fermentation product, can be freely secreted into the growth medium of Bacillus subtilis, it was found that various Bacillus can produce gamma-PGA extracellularly.

Chemical name of polyglutamic acid

  • Standard name: polyglutamic acid
  • INCI: POLYGLUTAMIC ACID
  • C A S: 25513-46-6
  • Other Chinese names: gamma-polyglutamic acid, polyglutamic acid, natto gum, natto gum, polyglutamic acid, vegetable collagen, natto gum, sodium polyglutamic acid, etc...
  • Other English names: γ-POLYGLUTAMIC ACID, NATTO GUM, SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE, SODIUM POLYGAMMA-GLUTAMATE, Gamma - (D, L) -PGA, Gamma - (D) -PGA, Gamma - (L) -PGA, Gamma-PGA, PGA, PLANT COLLAGEN, COLLAGENE VEGETALE, PHYTO COLLAGE...

*: Polyglutamic acid itself is difficult to dissolve in water. Generally, the PGA used in cosmetics is sodium-ionized PGA, which has excellent water solubility after sodium ionization; so there is a direct label on the market called polyglutamic acid sodium.

Industrial production of polyglutamic acid in Taimao

  • The large-scale production of γ-PGA is based on starch and glutamic acid as raw materials, refined by modern bioengineering technology and macromolecular crystallization separation technology.

Characteristics of gamma-PGA

  • Gamma-PGA has a unique molecular structure and is the most effective cosmetic moisturizer ever discovered.

It can absorb about 5,000 times its own weight in water, effectively increasing the skin's moisturizing ability.

Endogenous enhancement of skin NMF production, with a significant increase in skin NMF after 28 days.

Can bring skin care products extremely refreshing, silky and non-sticky.

Enhances fibroblast growth and increases collagen synthesis.

Gamma-PGA efficacy (long-term moisturizing + endogenous moisturizing)

Comparison of γ-PGA, hyaluronic acid and collagen

Figure: Comparison of three moisturizing ingredients

↗ increased performance → unchanged performance ↘ decreased performance

Polymers with a single molecule amino acid structure rarely found in nature

Polyglutamate Skin Features: 1. Refreshing, pleasant, even with a large molecular weight

2. Stronger absorption, non-sticky skin after drying, soft and smooth

  • Hyaluronic acid is much more slippery than gamma-PGA but much more sticky than gamma-PGA
  • The film-forming sensation of hyaluronic acid is much higher than that of gamma-PGA. The application plasticity feeling is better than that of gamma-PGA, but the absorption sensation of hyaluronic acid is much lower than that of gamma-PGA. The feeling of drying and disconnection of hyaluronic acid after use is very strong

The refreshing and non-sticky properties of γ-PGA make it a better experience than hyaluronic acid in facial film products, and the stickiness and mud rubbing can be well improved

Structural Comparison of γ-PGA, Hyaluronic Acid and Dextran

  • The use of polysaccharide structures in some formulations as moisturizers and anti-aging agents has long been common. Options for some natural sources, from hyaluronic acid to dextran, developed until the realization of the disruptive superiority of γ-PGA. Say goodbye to sticky, disjointed skin, and get a refreshing and soft experience. More and more people are falling in love with γ-PGA.

Gamma-PGA can effectively reduce epidermal water loss

  • Fig. 1 Effect reduction of Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TWEL) by PGA

Comparison of water absorption capacity of γ-PGA HA

Each gram of γ-PGA can absorb 4,600 times pure water and 10 times stronger than HA.

Gamma-PGA's ability to absorb water under extremely dry conditions is its greatest advantage

Comparison of Moisturizing Effects of Different Molecular Weight γ-PGA and HA

After applying a moisturizer containing 0.05% gamma-PGA of different molecular weights - polymer (HM) and low molecular (LM), HA, test the change of capacitance increase rate at 23 ° C and 60% relative humidity.

Comparison of moisture content in stratum corneum of γ-PGA and HA

QB/T4256-2011 "Guidelines for Evaluation of Moisturizing Efficacy of Cosmetics" was carried out to determine the moisture content of the stratum corneum of human skin by capacitance method.

Under the experimental conditions: (0.05% γ-polyglutamic acid + 0.05% hyaluronic acid) compound as a moisturizer sample has better moisturizing properties than 0.1% γ-polyglutamic acid or 0.1% hyaluronic acid.

At low concentration (0.02%), the moisturizing performance of γ-polyglutamic acid is better than that of hyaluronic acid; at higher concentration (0.1%), the moisturizing performance of hyaluronic acid is better than that of γ-polyglutamic acid in a short time (1 hour), and for a long time (2 hours, 4 hours), the moisturizing performance of γ-polyglutamic acid is better than that of hyaluronic acid.

The combination of the two greatly increases the moisturizing feeling after use after the slippery feeling of hyaluronic acid disappears, especially after the mask is used

The effect of γ-PGA on skin NMF hyperplasia - endogenous hydration, long-lasting moisturization

  • 0.05% γ-PGA actually promoted the formation of skin NMF components very significantly.

Moisturizing factor with whitening effect

Blocks melanin production, its whitening function is about 50% of vitamin C

Enhances fibroblast growth, collagen synthesis, and skin health.

  • Table 1 Cell Layer Density

Better absorption and penetration

  • The amino acid structure of γ-PGA is very easily absorbed by the skin, reaching the basal layer of the skin, and is much better than the molecule of polysaccharide structure in terms of transdermal absorption.
  • Commonly used ingredients such as hyaluronic acid do not promote the production of NMF in the human body.
  • Gamma-PGA is a true moisturizer that can achieve endogenous improvement in skin condition.
  • From its own branched chain structure of amino acids, it can be absorbed to the bottom layer of the skin.
  • Brings better affinity to the formula.
  • Gamma-PGA moisturizes significantly better after a few hours of use.
  • Long-term use can greatly improve dry skin.

γ-PGA inhibits hyaluronidase activity and stabilizes hyaluronic acid

Formulation compatibility

Recommended amount: 0.02% -0.5%

Note: There is a slight ionic property, and there is a certain viscosity reduction in the formulation of the acrylic system, which can be adjusted by increasing the amount of thickener used or changing the ionic-resistant thickener.

Gamma-PGA is widely applicable, and no other compatibility taboos have been found.

Applicable products: mask, water, essence, milk, cream and other products.

Taimao Cosmetic Grade γ-PGA

Comparison of Taimao cosmetic grade γ-PGA and market congeneric products

Taimao Products

Commercial Sample 1

Commercial Sample 2

Taimao Cosmetic Grade Gamma-PGA Specification Model

Note: 5001 and 5004 are custom products for customers.

Market Success Story Sharing

Brand: ARTISTRY

Name: Hengshi Ningyan Full Series

Origin: China